‘Take Every Wave’ a gnarly remnant
Laird Hamilton is the subject of “Take Every Wave,” a documentary that premiered at this year’s Sundance Film Festival. — Contributed
PARK CITY, Utah — There’s nothing to get your mind off a mountain snowstorm in the middle of January quite like a gnarly surfing film.
“Take Every Wave: The Life of Laird Hamilton” hung 10 on the Sundance Film Festival with an early evening showing at the MARC Theatre. Outside the wind was whipping the snow around and blowing it right into the faces of those walking to the theater, but inside everyone was stoked to see director Rory Kennedy’s documentary on the big wave pioneer and surfing innovator. True to character, Hamilton showed up to the premiere sporting bare feet in sandals. (Of course he did!)
The documentary cast a lens on Hamilton’s early years, growing up in Hawaii and his struggles to fit in with local culture as a blonde-haired caucasian with a penchant for bristling against authority and getting into trouble. With a natural talent and gift, he found his solace in the ocean, where he became a surfing legend without even entering the competitive circuit.
Definitely an oversized personality, Hamilton eventually led a tight-knit group of big wave enthusiasts to a secret spot in Hawaii where they had the monster breakers all to themselves. The group developed a tow-in technique (from behind a jet-ski) that allowed them to catch the waves at just the right moment for maximum thrill and death-defying effect.
A photo of Hamilton tackling a once-in-a-lifetime wave, taken from one of these sessions, ended up on the cover of surfing magazines everywhere and immediately led to the outing of their secret location, which quickly became overrun by less-talented and less-thoughtful surfers.
The video footage in the film is exquisite — helped out by professional video shot during these sessions for use by the surf group in producing videos of their exploits.
The documentary was bolstered by interviews with the surfers who were part of Hamilton’s once tight-knit group — before he left them behind — and others who would appear to be estranged from his present life. Even when offering up some critiques on Hamilton’s actions, their admiration for his skill and pure force-of-nature personality was impossible to deny.
Hamilton was accompanied to the screening by his wife, professional volleyball star Gabrielle Reece, and their three daughters — who appeared to range in age from 12 to 8.
At the post-screening Q&A, Hamilton was asked if his daughters surf.
“I am not a Little League parent,” he said. “You don’t have to surf in my family, but you do have to swim. … They’re ocean safe.”
Kennedy has directed more than 30 films, most of which deal with much darker subject matter — such as AIDS, politics and torture. She said this film was a welcome departure for her.
“I’ve always struggled to transition from the end of the introduction to say, ‘Enjoy the show,’ ” Kennedy told the audience in concluding her pre-screening comments. “But for the first time in my life, I can say, “Enjoy the show!”
No worries there.




